Monday, July 16, 2012

Exploring The Past Through The Present


     A seed contains genetic information that is linked historically to its family and to human culture.  In the year 2000, 95 percent of all the seed sown throughout the history of agriculture was extinct.*  As recently as 25 years ago, the biological diversity of food crops was far greater than it is today.  Fifty years ago, there were over 200 varieties of cherries.  Now there are only a handful.  What does this say about the course of agriculture in the last century?  What are the forces that have led us to this incredible decline in diversity?  How do we prevent further homogenization in our agriculture?  How do we take back our most productive soils planted to monocultures of the few dwindling varieties of fruits and vegetables that the market dictates?  This page exists as a place to answer these questions and many more that will evolve out of discussions with the people who are already working within the scope of this manifesto.
      The woman in the photograph is Isabella Ragione.  She is a big part of the reason this page is here.  She, and her now deceased father, have saved many types of apples, pears, and figs from extinction.  Some dating back to medieval times.  Several years ago, I traveled through Umbria with a group of farmers and chefs and we tasted some of this fruit.  I have since sought out some of the more unusual varieties at risk of disappearing. 
      It's easy to see saving plants as the interest of a select few.  Yet the connection of food crops to culture, community, and place is something that exists everywhere, in a variety of forms.  When these foods are lost the traditions that have helped build culture and community are lost with them.  We also lose the subtle differences in taste that are part of that sense of place and greater biodiversity.   The saving of seeds and plants for a future generation is in turn saving all these things we cherish.
     As a chef, it is in my interest to preserve these different flavors.  My pursuit is motivated not only by the need for preservation but also by my desire to cook from the ground up.  To understand the differences in the plants, soils, and places where they are grown. To understand what makes them and the end result unique.  To inspire myself and those who inspire me.  And most of all, to not let the diversity of taste become something we can only read about in books.


*SOURCE:  Wendy Johnson,  Gardening at the Dragon's Gate